Having a problem undoing the pulley nut on the end of the crankshaft? The handbook normally advises taking off the starter motor and locking the flywheel; well there's an easier way. Ensure the crank turns clockwise when the starter motor is operated then place a socket on a breaker bar and put the socket on the nut with the bar pointing down and to the right, this assumes the nut undoes anti-clockwise. Support the other end of the bar on a block of wood on the floor and make sure all the slack is taken up. You may need to wedge or tie the bar up to prevent it falling, don't let anyone hold it. Disable the engine by disconnecting the spark plug leads - this is vital. Quickly flick the starter on and off and the nut should unwind. To get it back on, have an assistant stand on the brake with the car in top gear while you torque it up; if the nut is not on too tight you may be able to use this method to get it off in the first place.

Pulley bolts removal

1. When loosening or tightening the bolts holding a pulley, position the wrench such that it crosses the centre of the pulley. This will lessen the turning force on the pulley. This can also be used on bolts holding the clutch plate to the flywheel. Another tip is to prevent the pulley turning by holding it with a wrench on one of the other bolts which has already been 'cracked', although this may have the effect of tightening, it may still be less tight when it is later removed. There are various combinations of where the wrench is placed and the direction of movement, so you will have to experiment. The wrench may also be positioned across the centre and used to lock against a socket being used on another bolt.

2. Don't use grips on the edge of a pressed metal pulley as they may deform it, instead try an old length of drive belt wrapped around the pulley by one and a half turns and with the end held by the grips used as a lever, and bearing on the wrapped belt.

Bolt torque

Remember that the application of an anti-seize compound, such as an a copper based grease, to the threads of a bolt will cause an increase in the final torque figure.

Engine mounting bolts

Make sure holes of the the engine mounting bracket and mounting are fully aligned before inserting the bolts. If mismatched by even a small amount, the dead weight of the engine may cause damage to the tips of the thread, increasing the effort required as the bolt is tightened and completely voiding the torque setting.

Gearbox removal

Removing the gearbox on the Ford Escort front wheel drive range entails removing the driveshafts and the consequent loss and mess associated with about 3 litres of oil. To overcome this leave the inner part of the drive shafts in the gearbox during removal. Once the gearbox is out the driveshafts can be removed if the oilseals are to be changed, allowing a controlled drain of the oil, or left on situ. The drive shafts can be disconnected at the inner CV joint by careful removal of the steel clip, for reuse later, or clipping the nylon strap. Part the joint by pulling the pre-dismantled suspension outwards, after marking the relative position of the two parts of the joint for later reassembly. Clean the rubber boot and surrounding area prior to removal. When the joint is parted, cover the greasy ends in thick plastic bags and tape them round. Tie up the drive shaft, but do not move it more through than the degree of movement recommended in the manual. To remove the inner part of the drive shaft from the gearbobox use a cold chisel about half inch wide, on its side, and lever against a ribbed part of the box with a sharp tap from a nylon mallet if required; it normally is. The drive shaft can be re-inserted by covering the bagged end with a block of wood and tapping it home carefully. There is an initial bouncing resistance from the snap rings, which should be renewed, after that it can be tapped in until it bottoms. Don't forget to grease the lips of the oilseal, if not pre-greased.

Removal and reinsertion of the gearbox is very tight with Zetec engines and it is advantageous to support the engine using the top front nearside lifting eye rather than using a jack underneath. The engine seems to twist on a jack and this leaves very little room between the diff part of the gearbox at the back and the cross member. Watch the clearance between the offside inner wing and the auxiliary belt pulleys when lowering the engine.

When dismantling the front suspension prior to removing the drive shafts from the gearbox you will find the bottom swivel joint can be difficult to part from the hub carrier as it jams when half way out when levered. This is due to the coil spring of the suspension forcing the strut downwards and outwards, jamming the swivel joint pin at its groove when halfway out of the hub carrier. To overcome this have someone apply pressure with a wooden lever to the large bearing hub nut by levering it against their foot whilst pushing the hub inwards. This allows you to lever the the lower suspension arm against the hub carrier with a bar, allowing the pin to slide straight down and out. Have a small piece of wood ready to place between the bottom suspension arm and the hub carrier to preven damage to the outer driveshaft boot.

Gearbox oil seal replacement

On the Ford Escort front wheel drive range, replacing the gearbox driveshaft oil seals entails measuring the depth by which the old ones were pressed in, as there is no shoulder for the new ones to seat on. You may also need to check the position the old seal was running on the driveshaft as there is no guarantee the previous replacement was correct, and this may be the reason it is leaking now. If in doubt, slip a new greased seal on the driveshaft and position it on the shoulder such that the back of the seal is spaced from the edge and the front dirt seal is spaced from the curved inner corner, then calculate the position it will sit in the gearbox when the shaft is fully inserted.

Buying tools

Buying cheap low quality tools does not pay in the long run for a number of reasons both financial and safety. Low quality tools will wear out faster and require replacement, so you may end up buying two or three sets of cheap sockets while a good quality set will go on and on. A cheap tool may even damage the components of your vehicle, a typical example of this is a cheap socket which slips on a nut, rounding the corners and allowing your hand to crash into that sharp edge which is always there ready and waiting! So make an investment in your tools; for a source of good quality tools CLICK HERE US/WW

Why not build a car yourself?

As well as being a step-by-step guide to building a roadworthy two-seater open sports car for a fraction of the cost of a kit car this book gives some interesting insights into car mechanics and fabrication. Using standard tools, basic skills and low-cost materials, it shows how to make the chassis, suspension and bodywork, and advises how to modify and use cheap but serviceable mechanical components. Scaled working drawings are included along with detailed illustrations and photographs.The book guides you instructions for building a strong space-frame chassis and suspension and even shows you how to source the power unit, transmission, steering, brakes, lights and many other parts. Fabrication and fitting of body panels, mudguards, seating and trim, instrument panel, windscreen and fuel tank are all covered and information is provided on UK legal requirements and vehicle registrations procedures. So if you are fed up grazing your knuckles on someone elses masterpiece; just build your own. UK/WW

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